Technically, it's two highways: Route 1 and Route 9. But for a significant stretch in northern New Jersey, they "merge" running between the Hudson River and the New Jersey Turnpike. Route 1&9 (in the singular) is a living, vibrant, and decidedly stressful remnant of the New Jersey most people remember. It's the New Jersey of concrete and asphalt, of repair shops, fast food joints and cheap motels. Slowly — and surely — it's being replaced by cleaner and wider roads, adorned with more contemporary versions of the same: establishments designed for those who drive in cars. Still, this is the Garden State in its hard-edged glory. The colors are real.